Run Game Practice

How to pick a haircut for your face shape

5 min read

Haircuts for men by face shape follow a simple idea: the cut changes where the eye goes, so you pick lines that balance your proportions. That's the theory style guides use. It's a set of conventions from barbers and stylists, not research findings, so treat it as a starting point and not a law. Your hair type, how it grows and how much upkeep you'll actually do matter just as much.

Here's how to work out your shape, what the guides usually suggest, and how to turn a photo into a cut you'll like.

Step 1: work out your face shape

One grooming guide (Gentleman's Gazette) suggests measuring, ideally with a friend's help, four things: the widest part of your forehead, your cheekbones, your jawline, and the length from your hairline to the bottom of your chin. Then you compare the numbers. Which is widest? Is the face longer than it is wide? Does the jaw look angular or soft?

A quicker version: pull your hair back, stand square to a bright mirror or take a front-facing photo, and look at the outline. This shortcut is just a way to get an impression. It's less exact than measuring.

Be ready for the guides to disagree. Gentleman's Gazette describes six shapes. Bespoke Unit, another men's style site, describes seven, adding a triangle shape. And plenty of faces sit between two categories. If you land halfway between two, you can read the advice for both.

Step 2: what the guides suggest

These suggestions come from the Gentleman's Gazette guide. Other guides vary on the details.

Shape How it's described Commonly suggested
Oval Longer than wide, slightly wider forehead, slightly rounded chin Almost any style; lift hair away from the forehead
Round Width close to length, soft jaw Cuts with strong lines to add definition
Square Length and width close, angular jaw Short, clean sides and back, some texture on top
Oblong Longer than wide, forehead, cheeks and jaw similar Classic cuts; sides not too short
Heart Wider forehead and cheeks, narrow chin Medium length swept to the side to soften the forehead
Diamond Widest at the cheekbones, narrow pointed chin, thinner forehead Add volume (longer styles, or shorter cuts with hair coming down the forehead); avoid square cuts

The same guide adds that hair type changes the advice. For example, it suggests different lengths for straight, wavy and tight curly hair on the same face shape. A cut that looks great in a photo on straight hair can behave very differently on curls or coils, so look for photos of people whose hair looks like yours.

What matters about as much as face shape

Step 3: talk to the barber

A barber sees hair every day and can judge how yours grows, which a chart can't. Gentleman's Gazette makes a similar point, saying a good barber can steer you whatever your face shape, and recommends bringing a photo and asking whether the style will work with your hair type.

  1. Bring 2 or 3 photos. Include a side or back view if you can find one. Say what you like about them: "the short sides, but I want more length on top."
  2. Ask, don't assume. "I think this might suit me. What would you change for my hair?" is a fair question.
  3. Use plain words. A taper means the hair gets gradually shorter toward the neckline. A fade goes down to very short or skin. Texture on top means cut so it doesn't sit flat. Neckline can be natural, rounded or squared. If a word doesn't make sense, ask.
  4. Ask for the numbers. Ask what clipper guard or length they used on the sides, then write it in your phone. Next visit you can say "same as last time."
  5. Try a smaller change first. If you're going for a big one, the guide recommends asking about a transitional style.

Styling and upkeep

A commonly quoted rule of thumb is a trim every 3 to 4 weeks, though it depends on the cut and how fast your hair grows. Short fades and sharp necklines look grown-out sooner. Fresh cuts can look harsh at the edges for a couple of days (a common view, not a measured one), which is why the grooming checklist suggests getting one two to five days before a night you care about.

For product, the same guide describes gel as giving a glossy finish, pomade and wax a matte, textured one, and grooming cream a subtle one, and says well-cut hair shouldn't need much. A common tip, not from the guide, is to start with a small amount, such as a pea-sized dab warmed between your palms, and add more only if the style won't stay put.

Judge a new cut after a few days at home, not in the chair. Hair settles and you learn how it styles. If it's wrong, tell your barber what you'd change. Most will adjust it.

Where a haircut fits

A haircut can change how you look in an afternoon, but it's one input among several. For the others, see how to be more attractive, what to wear and skincare.

If you want a second opinion before you commit, post a photo and a question in the forum's Style topic on Run Game.

What to do next

  1. Take a front-facing photo today in bright light with your hair pulled back, and decide which shape comes closest.
  2. Save 3 photos of cuts you like, ideally on people with similar hair, and note what you like about each.
  3. Book a barber you can return to. Ask for a consultation at the start.
  4. Write down the cut details after the appointment: sides, top, neckline and product.
  5. Wait 3 to 4 days before deciding if you like it, then book the next trim in your calendar.

Sources