Skincare for guys: a simple routine

A skincare routine for guys is three products: a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, and in the morning a sunscreen. That's the whole thing. It takes about five minutes, and it's the part of a glow up you can start from your bathroom tonight.

Skin gets called "softmaxxing" now, the gentler end of looksmaxxing where you fix things like skin, hair, sleep and fit instead of anything extreme. It's also the easiest place to start, because the basics are boring and dermatologists agree on most of them.

The routine

Morning (2 to 3 minutes)

Wash your face. A mild cleanser and lukewarm water.
Moisturizer. Put it on while your skin is still a little damp.
Sunscreen. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says to use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Broad spectrum means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Cover all exposed skin, including your ears, neck and scalp. For your lips, the AAD says to use a lip balm or lipstick with sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher.

Night (2 minutes)

Cleanser. Wash off sweat, sunscreen and the day.
Moisturizer. Same as the morning.
If you've added a treatment for acne (below), it goes here.

The AAD advises washing your face daily and after you work out, and says to skip regular bar soap, which can contain harsh ingredients that dry skin out. It also says to avoid hot water. Use lukewarm.

How to choose products without overthinking it

Work out your skin type first: normal, dry, oily, combination or sensitive. Then read the label.

Oily or breakout-prone: look for "oil free" or "non-comedogenic" on the cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. Non-comedogenic means it's made not to clog pores, though the AAD says some of these products can still cause breakouts in some people.
Sensitive: pick "fragrance free." The AAD warns that "unscented" products can still contain a masking fragrance.
Dry: moisturize right after you shower or shave while your skin is damp, and switch to a mild cleanser if you're using bar soap.

Don't buy a ten-step set. Buy three things, use them every day for a month, and judge after that. A product you use beats a better one that sits in a drawer.

The sunscreen part

If you only do one step, do this one. The AAD says to reapply every two hours, and right after swimming or sweating. Its sunscreen guide adds that water resistance lasts 40 or 80 minutes, and not every sunscreen has it. So check the label.

Make the morning application a habit first. On a run, at the beach, or on an outdoor date, bring it with you and reapply.

Common problems and what helps

Acne

Wash twice a day and after you sweat, and no more than that. The AAD says washing more often can irritate acne-prone skin, and that scrubbing irritates it and can make acne worse. Don't pick or pop either. The AAD says each time you do, you can make acne worse.

For over-the-counter treatment, the AAD lists benzoyl peroxide, adapalene gel (a retinoid) and salicylic acid as options. A few rules from the same page:

Give one product at least 4 weeks. Switching every few days can irritate skin and cause new breakouts. Improvement usually shows in 4 to 6 weeks, and clearing can take two to three months or longer.
Use it as directed on the label, and put a thin layer on all the acne-prone skin, not only on spots. The AAD says that helps prevent new breakouts.
If nothing improves after 4 to 6 weeks, add a product that works a different way. Try no more than one or two at a time, since too many can stress your skin.

The NHS warns that benzoyl peroxide may bleach clothing, other fabrics and hair, so keep it off them.

Oily skin

Look for oil-free, non-comedogenic products. Don't scrub harder to fix the shine, since scrubbing can irritate skin and make acne worse.

Dry skin

Moisturize right after the shower, while your skin is damp, and use lukewarm water. The AAD recommends applying moisturizer to your face and body after bathing, showering or shaving.

Razor bumps

The AAD's page on razor bumps says they happen when shaving cuts hair short enough that it can curl back into the skin, and that they're especially common in men with darker skin. Stopping shaving can clear them for good. According to the AAD, you should see fewer bumps within about a month and none by about three months, though new ones can form during regrowth. If you want to keep shaving:

Wet your skin and hair first. A warm compress for five minutes, or shaving at the end of a shower, softens the hair.
Use a moisturizing shaving cream and let it sit for one to two minutes, even with an electric razor. Never dry shave.
Use a sharp single-blade or electric razor. Replace a single blade after five to seven shaves.
Shave in the direction your hair grows, with short strokes and light pressure. Don't pull your skin tight, and don't pluck.
Rinse all the cream off, then use an aftershave made for razor bumps. If it stings, stop using it.

When to see a dermatologist

Go if:

You have deep, painful bumps (cysts or nodules), because they can scar.
Acne doesn't clear with over-the-counter treatment.
Razor bumps continue after you change how you shave. The AAD says men who keep getting them can end up with permanent deep grooves and raised scars.
A spot or mole is changing, itching or bleeding. The AAD says to make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist.
Your skin makes you uncomfortable. The AAD lists that as a reason to go too.

What not to do

Don't use bar soap, hot water or harsh scrubs on your face.
Don't pick, pop or squeeze.
Don't add five new products in one week. If your skin reacts, you won't know which one did it.
Don't copy a ten-step routine from a video. Three steps is a complete routine.
Don't follow extreme looksmaxxing trends. Bonesmashing, where people hit their own faces to try to change their bones, can cause serious harm, and surgeons warn against it.

What to do next

Buy three things this week: a mild cleanser, a moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Choose fragrance-free if your skin is sensitive, and oil-free or non-comedogenic if you get breakouts.
Start tomorrow morning: wash, moisturize while damp, sunscreen on your face, ears and neck. Put the bottles next to your toothbrush so you don't skip it.
Do the night step for 28 days in a row and take a photo of your face in the same light on day 1 and day 28.
Add one acne product only if you need it. Use it for at least 4 weeks and judge it at 4 to 6 weeks before adding a second.
Fix your shave: a fresh blade every five to seven shaves, shaving cream, and the direction your hair grows.
Book a dermatologist visit if you have deep cysts, scarring, acne that over-the-counter products haven't cleared, or a spot that's changing, itching or bleeding.

Skin is one part of the basics. The grooming checklist covers haircut, nails and breath, the 30-day glow up plan puts skin in its first stage, and how to be more attractive covers what changes and what doesn't. Next after skin is what to wear when you go out.